We spent last week on a small trout farm right in the Cordillera Talamanca at about 9,000 ft. For those of us from the temperate zone (pretty much everyone except our professors), the change in climate was a welcome one. Daily temperatures were about 60 F, sometimes in the 70s, and the mountains all around us gave us a nice taste of home. Additionally, the oak forest that predominates at the high altitudes is perhaps the closest thing we have seen yet to the East Coast forests of the US. In short, we loved it. And, our professors couldn’t wait to leave!
The farm is owned by Don Carlos, who has been a farmer his whole life, and seven other business men who reside in San Jose. The reason so many people own the farm is that they have purchased a large tract of land and restricted any resource extraction from the rest of the land. The only part of the farm that is in cultivation is that that is necessary for Don Carlos to make a living. Additionally, because they possess such a large tract of primary oak forest, they have built a large cabin for researchers and student groups to stay in. It is truly a unique place. Unlike Las Alturas, the Cuerici conservation model integrates the local community into their practice. In fact, it is initiated entirely by the local Costa Ricans. Additionally, Don Carlos visits the local elementary schools, and has them come stay at the cabin to see the oak forest. He and his co-owners are currently writing a contract for any future buyers that will ensure the forest is protected for, well, ever. Although the following pictures cannot do this place justice, they will certainly give you an idea of the aesthetic value of the place.
This is the view of the Talamanca Range from the front porch of the research cabin. Not. bad. Just behind the mountains in sight here is Cerro Chirripo, the highest mountain in the country. Don Carlos, who used to run a survival school from his house, used to lead trips to Chirripo from his front porch. The trek takes 10 days, and much of it is above treeline in the paramo, the Andean equivalent of an “alpine zone.” We spent one of our days at Cuerici up in the paramo with one of Don Carlos’ students, Jenny. She taught us about the plants of the paramo, including the edible ones! We ate wild blueberries and some wintergreen leaves which make your tongue go numb (it used to be used when people had cavities to numb the pain).

Looking down, rather than out from the porch, you see Don Carlos’ old horse Nablina (it means fog). She is pretty, and she is old. I got up early a lot of mornings to go hang out with Nablina.

One morning, we hiked up into the oak forest. There is a very distinct altitudinal line where the primary species of trees changes from alder to oak. Once we entered the oak forest, everything took on a foggy, mystical grandeur. The oaks tower high into the canopy,a nd their gnarled, knotty branches are covered with wet green moss and lichen. The treetops seems to disappear into the fog, giving the dull canopy a majestic aura that seems to dwarf everything around it. It is truly beautiful. One night, I hiked up through the oak forest with a group of friends, and spent the night in a bunk cabin that overlooks the entire valley below, and Don Carlos’ farm. Hiking through this forest at night was quiet and peaceful, and not nearly as scary as I thought it would be. Don Carlos’ says that some of these trees are between 800 and 1000 years old. Their size reaffirms this estimate.

The majority of Don Carlos’ income comes from his trout farm. A series of “ditches” are staggered down the hillside; the further down the hill, the older the fish. All the water flowing through the ditches (though the fish do not flow through, they are kept in a ditch until they are old enough to be moved to the next one) ends up in the large pond at the bottom. The suckers in the bottom pond are huge. The eldest fish are the reproductive force that keeps the whole operation running. When Don Carlos gave us a tour of his farm, her explained to us how he mates the fish, by “massaging” the belly of the reproductive females to extract the eggs, he then collects the sperm and stores the fertilized eggs in an incubator in the barn. We got to see the egg sacks first hand one day while exploring the farm. My friends and I noticed a dead fish of reproductive age at the bottom of the big pond. Don Carlos’ gave us the OK to remove the fish with the net, and once we caught it he helped us perform an autopsy to determine how the fish died. The huge swollen liver was a big clue to a primary cause of death in female farmed trout of reproductive age. Some of the females eggs that had not been fully extracted had become lodged in her liver, where they caused a mortal infection. Needless to say, it was pretty cool to look at, and I got elbow deep in a stinky fish carcass.
We had trout for our final meal at the farm, and Don Carlos let us participate in the whole preparation of the meal, from catching the fish, to gutting, to filleting, (not to cooking), and then to eating. It was a blast. In the picture below we are standing around the gully from which we extracted our dinner fish. Don Carlos gave us each a turn with the net to try and scoop up the fish. Lots of people tried and failed. I caught two. After about fifteen minutes of trying, we still only had four fish, and we needed fifteen. My goofy Russian friend Andrew decided to give it try. In what can only be described as a stroke of luck, Andrew netted eleven fish. He was as surprised as everyone else when he lifted his bounty from the water. The meal was on Andrew that night.
Don Carlos only gave us about one minute of celebration before he snagged the fish from our net and methodically reached through the gills into the mouth, snapping the neck with an unceremonious pop. Fish dead. Dinner meat.

From the pond we headed to Don Carlos’ house. He taught us all how to remove the guts and prepare the fish for filleting. His cats milled around our ankles mewing as we worked; the new kitten trailing behind their mothers with bumbling steps (see the precious face below).


Here are our beautiful fish.

DINNER! All but one of our vegetarians converted to pescatarians for the night; everyone enjoyed our freshly harvested meal!

A note of memory: this is our lizard, Fria Montane. She hung out on our shoulders for an entire day before someone put her back on the floor and someone else stepped on her. Shouldn’t ever trust humans…
